Error Code HE
Your Samsung washer displays HE when the heating element fails to raise the water temperature as expected. The control board monitors the thermistor readings during cycles that require heated water. If the water temperature does not increase within a set time after the heater is activated, or if the heater circuit draws abnormal current, the board stops the cycle and shows HE. Sub-code HE1 means the heater is not heating. HE2 means the heater is overheating (temperature exceeding 95 degrees C / 203 degrees F).
Common Causes
Burned-out heating element: The tubular heating element inside the outer tub burns through over time. An open circuit in the element means no current flows and no heat is produced.
Faulty thermistor: The temperature sensor gives incorrect readings, making the control board think the heater is not working even when it is, or failing to signal an overheat condition.
Heater relay failure on control board: The relay on the main control board that switches power to the heater burns out or sticks. The heater receives no power even though it is physically intact.
Loose wiring at the heater terminals: The spade connectors on the heater terminals corrode or loosen from thermal cycling. A poor connection creates high resistance and prevents full power delivery to the element.
Heater element grounding (short to tub): The heating element develops a crack in its insulation and shorts to the metal outer tub. This trips the heater circuit and triggers HE2 (overheat). It also creates a shock hazard.
DIY Troubleshooting
Confirm the error sub-code: Note whether the display shows HE, HE1, HE2, or HC. HE1 means the heater is not producing heat. HE2 means the heater is overheating. HC is the newer version of the same code. This tells you whether to look for an open element or a grounding/overheat issue.
Access the heating element: Remove the rear panel of the washer. The heating element is mounted in the lower part of the outer tub, secured with a single center bolt and a rubber gasket. You will see two large spade terminals on the element and the thermistor probe nearby.
Test the heating element for continuity: Disconnect the wires from both heater terminals. Set a multimeter to ohms. Touch the probes to the two heater terminals. A functioning element reads between 12 and 30 ohms. An OL (infinity) reading means the element is burned open and needs replacement.
Test for ground fault: Keep the multimeter on ohms. Place one probe on a heater terminal and the other on the bare metal of the outer tub (or the heater's metal sheath). The reading should be OL (no continuity). Any resistance reading means the element is grounding to the tub -- this is a shock hazard and the element must be replaced immediately.
Check the heater terminal connections: Inspect the spade connectors on the heater wires. Look for discoloration, melting, or corrosion. Corroded connectors need replacement. Use crimp-on 1/4-inch spade terminals and a wire crimping tool. Clean the heater terminal posts with fine sandpaper before reattaching.
Replace the heating element if faulty: Loosen the center bolt of the heater with a 10mm socket. Do not remove the bolt completely -- push it inward slightly to release the rubber expansion gasket. Pull the element straight out. Clean the gasket seat on the tub. Insert the new element, tighten the center bolt snugly (do not overtighten or you will crack the tub), and reconnect the wires.
Professional Repair
Call a technician if the element tests good but HE persists (indicating a control board relay failure), if you detect a ground fault, or if you are not comfortable working with high-voltage heater circuits. TruePro charges a $59 diagnostic fee credited toward the repair, and all work carries a 90-day warranty on parts and labor. Call 877-378-3111 for same-day service in LA County, Orange County, or Ventura County.
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FAQ
What does Samsung error code HE mean?
Your Samsung washer displays HE when the heating element fails to raise the water temperature as expected. The control board monitors the thermistor readings during cycles that require heated water. If the water temperature does not increase within a set time after the heater is activated, or if the heater circuit draws abnormal current, the board stops the cycle and shows HE. Sub-code HE1 means the heater is not heating. HE2 means the heater is overheating (temperature exceeding 95 degrees C / 203 degrees F).
Can I fix error code HE myself?
1. Confirm the error sub-code: Note whether the display shows HE, HE1, HE2, or HC. HE1 means the heater is not producing heat. HE2 means the heater is overheating. HC is the newer version of the same code. This tells you whether to look for an open element or a grounding/overheat issue. 2. Access the heating element: Remove the rear panel of the washer. The heating element is mounted in the lower part of the outer tub, secured with a single center bolt and a rubber gasket. You will see two large spade terminals on the element and the thermistor probe nearby. 3. Test the heating element for continuity: Disconnect the wires from both heater terminals. Set a multimeter to ohms. Touch the probes to the two heater terminals. A functioning element reads between 12 and 30 ohms. An OL (infinity) reading means the element is burned open and needs replacement. 4. Test for ground fault: Keep the multimeter on ohms. Place one probe on a heater terminal and the other on the bare metal of the outer tub (or the heater's metal sheath). The reading should be OL (no continuity). Any resistance reading means the element is grounding to the tub -- this is a shock hazard and the element must be replaced immediately. 5. Check the heater terminal connections: Inspect the spade connectors on the heater wires. Look for discoloration, melting, or corrosion. Corroded connectors need replacement. Use crimp-on 1/4-inch spade terminals and a wire crimping tool. Clean the heater terminal posts with fine sandpaper before reattaching. 6. Replace the heating element if faulty: Loosen the center bolt of the heater with a 10mm socket. Do not remove the bolt completely -- push it inward slightly to release the rubber expansion gasket. Pull the element straight out. Clean the gasket seat on the tub. Insert the new element, tighten the center bolt snugly (do not overtighten or you will crack the tub), and reconnect the wires.
How much does it cost to fix error HE?
Typical repair costs: DIY: $30 - $85 | Pro: $200 - $425. Free diagnostic with approved repair.
Estimated Cost
DIY: $30 - $85 | Pro: $200 - $425
Free diagnostic with approved repair
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