Error Code 4E
Your Samsung washer displays 4E when it fails to fill with water within a set time. The control board expects a rising water level after opening the inlet valves. When the water level sensor detects no change, the cycle stops and the 4E code appears. The washer will not proceed until the water supply problem is resolved.
Common Causes
Water supply valves are shut off: The hot and cold shut-off valves behind the washer are partially or fully closed. Both valves must be open all the way for the washer to fill.
Kinked or crushed fill hoses: The rubber or braided stainless steel hoses between the wall valves and the washer are bent, pinched, or collapsed. This restricts water flow to the inlet valves.
Clogged inlet screen filters: Small mesh screens sit inside the washer's water inlet valve ports. Sediment, mineral buildup, and debris clog these screens over time and block water flow.
Faulty water inlet valve: The dual solenoid inlet valve on the back of the washer fails electrically or mechanically. The solenoid coils burn out or the valve body cracks, preventing water entry.
Low household water pressure: Samsung washers require a minimum of 20 psi at the fill hoses. If your home water pressure is below this threshold, the washer cannot fill fast enough.
DIY Troubleshooting
Check the water supply valves: Pull the washer away from the wall far enough to access the back. Locate the hot and cold shut-off valves on the wall. Turn both valves fully counterclockwise until they stop. If you have lever-style quarter-turn valves, align the handle parallel with the pipe.
Inspect the fill hoses: Trace both fill hoses from the wall valves to the back of the washer. Straighten any kinks or bends. Replace hoses that are cracked, bulging, or older than five years. Use braided stainless steel hoses rated for washing machines.
Clean the inlet screen filters: Turn off both water supply valves. Disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer using adjustable pliers. Pull out the small mesh screens from inside each inlet port with needle-nose pliers. Rinse the screens under running water and use an old toothbrush to scrub off sediment. Reinsert the screens and reconnect the hoses. Tighten by hand plus a quarter turn with pliers.
Test water flow independently: Disconnect the fill hoses from the washer. Hold the hose ends over a bucket. Turn on the wall valves one at a time. Water should flow at a strong, steady stream. If flow is weak or absent, the problem is upstream in your plumbing, not the washer.
Test the water inlet valve: Set a multimeter to the ohms setting. Unplug the washer. Remove the top panel by unscrewing the two Phillips screws at the rear. Locate the inlet valve at the top rear of the machine. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from each solenoid coil. Place the multimeter probes on the terminals of each coil. A healthy coil reads between 500 and 1,500 ohms. An open-loop or very high reading means the coil is burned out and the valve needs replacement.
Reset the washer: After correcting the water supply issue, plug the washer back in. Press and hold the Power button for 5 seconds, then release. Press Power again to turn it on. Select a Rinse + Spin cycle and start it. The washer should fill without displaying 4E.
Professional Repair
Call a technician if the inlet valve tests bad on a multimeter, if you have low household water pressure affecting multiple fixtures, or if the error returns after cleaning the filters and verifying hose flow. TruePro charges a $59 diagnostic fee that gets credited toward your repair, and we back all work with a 90-day warranty on parts and labor. Call 877-378-3111 for same-day service in LA County, Orange County, or Ventura County.
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FAQ
What does Samsung error code 4E mean?
Your Samsung washer displays 4E when it fails to fill with water within a set time. The control board expects a rising water level after opening the inlet valves. When the water level sensor detects no change, the cycle stops and the 4E code appears. The washer will not proceed until the water supply problem is resolved.
Can I fix error code 4E myself?
1. Check the water supply valves: Pull the washer away from the wall far enough to access the back. Locate the hot and cold shut-off valves on the wall. Turn both valves fully counterclockwise until they stop. If you have lever-style quarter-turn valves, align the handle parallel with the pipe. 2. Inspect the fill hoses: Trace both fill hoses from the wall valves to the back of the washer. Straighten any kinks or bends. Replace hoses that are cracked, bulging, or older than five years. Use braided stainless steel hoses rated for washing machines. 3. Clean the inlet screen filters: Turn off both water supply valves. Disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer using adjustable pliers. Pull out the small mesh screens from inside each inlet port with needle-nose pliers. Rinse the screens under running water and use an old toothbrush to scrub off sediment. Reinsert the screens and reconnect the hoses. Tighten by hand plus a quarter turn with pliers. 4. Test water flow independently: Disconnect the fill hoses from the washer. Hold the hose ends over a bucket. Turn on the wall valves one at a time. Water should flow at a strong, steady stream. If flow is weak or absent, the problem is upstream in your plumbing, not the washer. 5. Test the water inlet valve: Set a multimeter to the ohms setting. Unplug the washer. Remove the top panel by unscrewing the two Phillips screws at the rear. Locate the inlet valve at the top rear of the machine. Disconnect the wire harness connectors from each solenoid coil. Place the multimeter probes on the terminals of each coil. A healthy coil reads between 500 and 1,500 ohms. An open-loop or very high reading means the coil is burned out and the valve needs replacement. 6. Reset the washer: After correcting the water supply issue, plug the washer back in. Press and hold the Power button for 5 seconds, then release. Press Power again to turn it on. Select a Rinse + Spin cycle and start it. The washer should fill without displaying 4E.
How much does it cost to fix error 4E?
Typical repair costs: DIY: $15 - $65 | Pro: $150 - $325. Free diagnostic with approved repair.
Estimated Cost
DIY: $15 - $65 | Pro: $150 - $325
Free diagnostic with approved repair
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