Error Code 24E
Error code 24E means the freezer defrost cycle did not complete successfully. The control board started a defrost cycle, but the evaporator temperature did not rise to the expected level within the allotted time. Ice builds up on the freezer evaporator, blocks airflow, and causes both the freezer and fridge to warm up. On newer models, the code shows as 24C.
Common Causes
Burned-out defrost heater: The glass-tube or calrod defrost heater under the freezer evaporator has failed. It no longer generates heat to melt frost during the defrost cycle. This is the single most common cause of 24E.
Failed defrost thermostat (bi-metal): The bi-metal thermostat mounted on the evaporator acts as a safety cutoff. If it fails in the open position, it cuts power to the heater permanently, preventing defrost.
Defective defrost control on the main board: The relay or triac on the main PCB that sends power to the defrost heater has failed. The heater and thermostat test fine but receive no voltage.
Defrost sensor failure: The defrost temperature sensor (separate from the thermostat) sends inaccurate readings that cause the board to end the defrost cycle too early. This overlaps with the 4E code, but 24E specifically indicates an incomplete defrost event.
DIY Troubleshooting
Manually defrost the evaporator: Unplug the refrigerator. Remove all food, shelves, and drawers from the freezer. Unscrew and remove the rear freezer panel (Phillips screwdriver, 4-6 screws). If the evaporator is coated in ice, leave the unit unplugged with the door open for 6-8 hours. Place towels on the floor to absorb water. A room-temperature fan speeds the process.
Test the defrost heater: Once the ice is melted, locate the defrost heater -- a glass tube or metal element running along the bottom of the evaporator coil assembly. Disconnect both wire connectors from the heater. Set a multimeter to the 200-ohm range. Place probes on the heater terminals. A working heater reads between 20-40 ohms. OL means the heater is burned out and needs replacement. Common Samsung part: DA47-00244U or model-specific equivalent.
Test the defrost bi-metal thermostat: The bi-metal thermostat is a small disc mounted on the evaporator tubing, connected in series with the defrost heater. Disconnect its two wires. At room temperature, test for continuity -- it should show continuity (closed circuit). If it reads OL at room temperature, the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced.
Check the defrost sensor: Locate the defrost thermistor clipped to the evaporator tubing (separate from the bi-metal). Disconnect and test resistance. At room temperature (77 degrees F), it should read approximately 5 kOhms. Replace if it reads OL or 0 ohms.
Replace faulty components and test: Replace the defrost heater, bi-metal thermostat, or defrost sensor as determined by your tests. Reassemble the rear panel. Replace shelves, drawers, and food. Plug in the refrigerator. Initiate a forced defrost cycle by pressing Energy Saver and Fridge simultaneously for 8 seconds (model-dependent). Verify the heater activates (listen for a faint ticking or feel warmth near the evaporator area after 5-10 minutes) and the 24E code does not return.
Professional Repair
Call a technician if you cannot determine which defrost component has failed, if the main board's defrost relay is the problem, or if the 24E code returns after replacing the heater and thermostat. TruePro's $59 diagnostic fee is credited toward the repair. All work includes a 90-day warranty on parts and labor (CA License #51112). Same-day service is often available in LA County, Orange County, and Ventura County. Call 877-378-3111. Use code NEW15 for 15% off labor as a first-time customer.
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FAQ
What does Samsung error code 24E mean?
Error code 24E means the freezer defrost cycle did not complete successfully. The control board started a defrost cycle, but the evaporator temperature did not rise to the expected level within the allotted time. Ice builds up on the freezer evaporator, blocks airflow, and causes both the freezer and fridge to warm up. On newer models, the code shows as 24C.
Can I fix error code 24E myself?
1. Manually defrost the evaporator: Unplug the refrigerator. Remove all food, shelves, and drawers from the freezer. Unscrew and remove the rear freezer panel (Phillips screwdriver, 4-6 screws). If the evaporator is coated in ice, leave the unit unplugged with the door open for 6-8 hours. Place towels on the floor to absorb water. A room-temperature fan speeds the process. 2. Test the defrost heater: Once the ice is melted, locate the defrost heater -- a glass tube or metal element running along the bottom of the evaporator coil assembly. Disconnect both wire connectors from the heater. Set a multimeter to the 200-ohm range. Place probes on the heater terminals. A working heater reads between 20-40 ohms. OL means the heater is burned out and needs replacement. Common Samsung part: DA47-00244U or model-specific equivalent. 3. Test the defrost bi-metal thermostat: The bi-metal thermostat is a small disc mounted on the evaporator tubing, connected in series with the defrost heater. Disconnect its two wires. At room temperature, test for continuity -- it should show continuity (closed circuit). If it reads OL at room temperature, the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced. 4. Check the defrost sensor: Locate the defrost thermistor clipped to the evaporator tubing (separate from the bi-metal). Disconnect and test resistance. At room temperature (77 degrees F), it should read approximately 5 kOhms. Replace if it reads OL or 0 ohms. 5. Replace faulty components and test: Replace the defrost heater, bi-metal thermostat, or defrost sensor as determined by your tests. Reassemble the rear panel. Replace shelves, drawers, and food. Plug in the refrigerator. Initiate a forced defrost cycle by pressing Energy Saver and Fridge simultaneously for 8 seconds (model-dependent). Verify the heater activates (listen for a faint ticking or feel warmth near the evaporator area after 5-10 minutes) and the 24E code does not return.
How much does it cost to fix error 24E?
Typical repair costs: DIY: $25 - $80 | Pro: $200 - $400. Free diagnostic with approved repair.
Estimated Cost
DIY: $25 - $80 | Pro: $200 - $400
Free diagnostic with approved repair
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